Jul. 14, 2025
It's bra time again! I'm not going to lie, I've been looking forward to this post more and more with every single comment all you lovely humans gave me on my floral bustier - and it is in fact, due to your kind pestering, that this tutorial exists!
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When I was planning the matching clasp for that bra, there was a surprising lack of knowledge available in the area of constructing your own hook and eye clasp. Aside from a mention on Ying's Tailor Made Blog that she once made one, I could find nary a whisper of anyone else creating such a thing.
On reasons you might want to add a DIY clasp to your DIY bra: I can think of a few, but saving time is not one of them. To be able to bring the pretty cradle/cup fabric around to the back for continuity, maybe, for the technical challenge, because you can't find a clasp that matches, or because you're making a longline and you don't want to choose between black or white hook and eye tape. To name a few. Whatever your reason, just make sure you have a few hours and a nice cup of coffee. For a first clasp especially, expect to spend about as long on the clasp as you will on the rest of your bra. As long as you know up front that it's fiddly, slow, time consuming, and that we're basically doing something on a home sewing machine that a home sewing machine isn't meant to be able to do.
Okay, enough of my introductory blathering. Onwards to the good stuff!
That's it for supplies! you'll also want sharp scissors, some pins, a small ruler, an iron, a sewing needle, and of course, your trusty sewing machine (although this is 100% doable by hand if you're so inclined! - I use a button foot and a zipper foot.) I also highly recommend a sewing awl if you haven't already got one - it's great for helping to feed our tiny pieces of fabric through the machine, so you can avoid sewing your fingers...
For this tutorial, I'm making two clasps out of two very different fabrics. The first is my floral satin from Elle-Joan's (leftover from the bustier!) - it's polyester, fairly thick, stable, with no mechanical give up and down, and a bit of horizontal stretch. The second is a beautiful 100% silk Liberty of London fabric from The Fabric Store which was so insanely beautiful and expensive that I could only make something very small with it. It's woven, and pretty stable both lengthwise and crosswise, but it turns to liquid if you even look at it on the bias. In this tutorial, we'll talk about ways to improve the structural integrity of this wiggly silk and make sure it'll hold up to the strain of being a bra clasp. If you're just dying to use a knit or stretch fabric, stabilizing will also be a good trick because the bra clasp is an area in which we definitely are not looking for stretch.
Step 1 is cutting, but before that we need to answer a quick question: How tall do you want your finished hook measurement to be? This will be influenced by how many hooks you want and their spacing, but it mostly depends on the length of the center back edge of your bra band. The industry average (according to my collection) is 3/4" between each hook, and 1/2" between the last hook and the edge of the clasp. This, obviously, is up to you, but it's always good to know what's standard. Do you have your measurement? or an approximate? Cool. We're going to call that x, for clarity. My x heights for the two clasps I'm making are 2.5" - both my clasps will be three hooks tall.
Now's also a good time to mention that if your fabric is very flimsy (like my Liberty silk) or you're worried about it for whatever reason, I'd recommend two layers of sheer cup lining as an interlining for both the hook and the eye side. The clasp is one of the highest-stress areas of a bra, so giving it a good foundation like this, although a bit fiddly, will help its longevity down the line!
Okay, have we got all our pieces cut and fused? Great! Just a quick side note to talk about hooks and eyes: The ones that come in pre-made bra clasps are Very Different to the ones you buy in the clasps section of your friendly neighborhood sewing store:
I can't say with any conviction that terror will rain from the skies if you use the 'normal' kind, but I'm sticking with the bra-specific kind because there's not a cost difference between the two, and because I like the little square shape of the eyes, as opposed to the rounded kind. The only negative is that I can't seem to find them anywhere except by ripping up existing cheaply made 'bra extenders'
edit: Kelly from Canada has an in, you guys! She found some hooks and eyes of the square variety - they're sold under 'bridal' and come only in white, but it's a start!
Gina has also found a link for those of you in the US (Washington, it looks like) that sells 'bridal' hook and eyes as well- here's the link!
Alright - have you made up your mind about the hooks and eyes? Let me know in the comments if you can think of an argument one way or the other! Let's get back to our clasps. We need to do a bit (okay, a lot) of ironing prep before we can sew our clasps together. For the hook, fold in both top and bottom edge 1/2" and press, then fold the left and right edges in 1/2" and press. Like so:
Those pieces will fit together with the hooks. For now, though, set them aside so we can iron the eye side.
Take your back piece, and fold its top and bottom edges in 1/2", then fold its left edge in 1/2". Fold the right edge in 3/4". If you're using interlining, place those pieces under the folded edges now.
Both of your eye strips need the following treatment:Fold and press the two short edges under 1/2". On the long edge where the interfacing goes all the way to the edge, fold under 1/2" and press. (we need the interfacing stability for later!)
Last piece! For your finishing strip, fold 1/2" in from each side, and 1/2" from the top and bottom. That little group of pieces should look like this:
Alrighty, now that we've got our bits ironed, the next step is attaching the hooks and eyes! First, the eyes: It's helpful at this stage to have a button foot on your machine, but if you don't, or you're confident in your hand sewing abilities, you can absolutely do this bit by hand. To find the distance between your eyes, you can take the ~standards~ to heart, measure 1/2" from the top edge, then place your hooks and eyes 3/4" apart ending 1/2" from the bottom.... or you can just kind of wing it and come up with something that looks good to you. Just keep in mind that the further apart you place them, the more chance there is of gaping. I'd say stick towards closer together for more delicate fabric.
Alright, this is where we set our phasers to 'stun'... or our sewing machines to 'stitch length zero, zig zag width 2ish', as the case may be. Your first row of eyes will be sewn down over the wider folded edge of the back eye piece.We want to sew through each eye individually, rather than through them both with vertical stitches, because this method is sturdier in the long run and your hardware (combined with backstitching) will not be able to work themselves free. Align them so you'll be sewing through all the layers (all except the extra back piece, if you're using that method. I used it for the purple silk but not the stretch floral), place the fabric under your button foot with the base of the eye 1/2" back from the edge of the clasp (see photo below for placement), and, using either the button setting on your machine (if you're fancy) or a medium width zig zag with the stitch length set to 0 (if you're like me) - sew each loop of the eye down! Remember to backstitch! If you don't, your poor clasp will fall apart in your hands and you will loose eyes everywhere, never to be seen again. Ask me how I know. Ask me. Personally, I don't clip threads between the two loops, but you do you.
Switch to your zipper foot, and position one of the eye strips over your newly sewn eyes right side down with the fold line opened and centered over the eye (through the center of the interfacing section, so that when you fold it down, the wider half will be on top). Now. Some of you are going to begin yelling at your screens right about now, because I'm about to tell you to straight stitch right over 'top of those eyes, and sewing over metal is a Bad Thing - I mean, you're basically sewing over the equivalent of pins! (I agree. Remember the rant in this post? Yeah. I'm with ya for sure) - but it's the only way to get a pretty clean finish, and if you go slow and set yourself a medium stitch length, you'll be just fine. Have an extra needle on hand if you're nervous.
Nearly complete! You'll just want to stitch the upper and lower edges together by hand - I do this with a mattress stitch, which will render those seams basically invisible. A lot of storebought clasps I've found use a heat seal here, which is a nice clean finish even if it is sometimes itchy - and this is a similarly clean alternative, even if it can't be machine stitched! If you really can't be bothered to hand stitch, I'd do an edgestitch as close to the top and bottom edges as you could. If you're worried about running over the eyes, pop your zipper foot on and you should be able to avoid them. It's up to you! Don't stitch the edges up quite yet, though - the open sides are really handy for attaching the clasp to your bra, so do that final edge finishing last!
I'd like to say the hard part is over, but unfortunately this is where things start to get really fiddly. Take one of the hook pieces (doesn't matter which, they're identical) and unfold the side on which the interfacing goes all the way to the edge. if you're using sheer nylon for stability, insert it under that fold, and place it under the button foot with your first hook.
Guide C-232
Revised by Robin Mack-Haynes
The College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences, New Mexico State University
Author: Extension Home Economist, Lea County Extension Office, New Mexico State University. (Print Friendly PDF)
Fasteners add function and details to any garment. The most common fasteners are snaps, self gripping devices, and hooks and eyes. The fastener used will depend on the garment fabric, the type of garment, the position and type of opening, the amount of stress the fastener will experience, and the effect you want to create. For example, a delicate fabric may call for covered snaps while rugged active wear needs a heavy-duty snap fastener.
When selecting a fastener for your garment, consider the following:
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Hooks and eyes are hidden fasteners. They can be used to hold edges together or overlapped. Hooks and eyes are available in several sizes and colors to match different fabrics. Hooks come with either loops or straight eyes (Figure 1). Most must be sewn in place, but no-sew hooks and eyes are also available. The no-sew versions must be clamped in place. Always follow the instructions in the package. The smaller hooks and eyes must be used on lightweight fabrics. Heavier fabric should be used with larger hooks and eyes.
Figure 1. Examples of different hook and eye fasteners.
Hooks and eyes are placed 1/8 inch from the edge of the fabric. The hooks are placed on the overlap and the straight eye should be placed on the underlap. Loop eyes should be used for edges that just meet. Generally, only one set of hooks and eyes will be used; however, if the opening is wide, use two sets (Figure 2).
Figure 2. Use two sets of hooks and eyes for larger openings.
Each of the pieces should be stitched in placed using a buttonhole stitch or overhand whip stitch. Stitches should be very close together and stitched around the ring of the hook and eye. As you stitch, be careful not to show your work on the right side of the garment. Additional stitches will be needed to secure the top of the hook and loop eye. To secure the top of the hook, add three wrapped stitches to the “bill” of the hook. To secure the loop eye, add some wrap stitches on either side of the U-shape to prevent any swinging or movement (Figure 3).
Figure 3. Secure the loop eye with wrap stitches on either side of the U-shape.
Whether it is for decoration or as a substitute for a metal eye, a thread eye can be used on a garment. Thread eyes are not as strong as a metal eye, but they can be less conspicuous; they are therefore recommended for use in areas that do not have a lot of pull or strain, such as a neckline opening above a zipper. There are two different methods of making threads eyes: blanket or buttonhole stitch and the thread chain.
The blanket or buttonhole stitch begins with a double strain of all-purpose thread. Hide the thread between the fabric layers. Take a stitch, approximately 1/4 inch long, across the thread eye position. If you are making a straight eye, pull the thread tight. If you are making a round eye, pull the thread to make a slight loop. Repeat this step until you have created a “bridge” of thread. Starting at one end of the “bridge,” do a buttonhole stitch over the thread “bridge.” Pull the thread tight after each stitch (Figure 4).
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Figure 4. Use buttonhole stitches over the thread “bridge” when making thread eyes.
To make a thread chain or a crocheted chain, use a double thread with a knot. Align the garment edges and mark with pins where the chain should begin and end. Bring the thread up through one of the markings. Take a tiny stitch to secure the thread. Leave a loop large enough for your fingers to slip through. Slip your thumb and first finger through the loop. Pull the thread through the loop to make a second loop. Tighten the first loop as you pull. Repeat these steps until the chain is the right length. Run the needle through the last loop to lock the chain. Tack the finished loop securely to the other mark. There should be some slack in the loop (Figure 5).
Figure 5. Steps for making a thread or crocheted chain.
Snaps are a fastener that should be used where there is little strain on the item area. Their primary function is to hold something in place, and therefore they can be used in place of buttons and buttonholes or self-gripping devices. Snaps, are generally made of metal, and come in a variety of sizes for lightweight, medium-weight, and heavy weight fabrics. Snaps are generally purchased in grey metal, black metals, or clear nylon. The color of the snap should blend well with the garment fabric.
Snaps come in several sew-in and no-sew styles. The sew-in styles are generally in two parts—the ball and the socket (Figure 6). The ball part of the snap is positioned on the overlap side of the placket and the socket on the underlap. The snap pieces are stitched 1/8 inch from the edge of the fabric. Begin by making several tacking stitches through each hold, then run the thread under the snap to the next hole. The stitches should not show on the outside of the garment. To make the opposite side of the placket, rub chalk on the ball and close the placket, the chalk will mark the place for the socket. The socket will be stitched onto the garment in the same way as the ball (Figure 7).
Figure 6. Sew-in snaps have a ball and a socket.
Figure 7. Sewing a snap to a garment.
Snap tape can be machine stitched onto a garment. In this application, several snaps are fixed in a long row the length of the tape. The tape can be premeasured and cut to fit the garment. This application is used in baby garments.
No-sew snaps generally come in four parts. The inner and outer parts pierce the fabric to make one snap piece (Figure 8). These type of snaps damage the fabric where the snap is placed, so you don’t want to make any mistakes when applying them. These snaps are also visible on the outside of your garment.
Figure 8. No-sew snaps pierce the garment fabric to hold them in place.
Post snaps use a center post to pierce the fabric and join the pieces together. These type of snaps are stronger than a pronged snap and are used in heavyweight or thick fabrics.
Prong snaps use knife-like points to pierce the fabric and join with the inner pieces. The prongs do minimal damage to the fabric, and work well on lightweight fabrics. The snap’s cap can add embellishment to the garment using gem-like stones or coordinating colored ring caps.
Specialty snaps can be used for a variety of garments, accessories, and home interior projects. Magnetic snaps have strong magnets inside to draw the two snap pieces together. This four-part snap works like a prong snap, but is generally hidden in the facing or lining. The snap tape or gripper tape is a fabric tape of prong-type snaps. The snaps are pre-set into the fabric tape, and the tape is stitched into place on each side of the garment opening. The socket side of the tape is stitched to the underlap and the ball side is stitched to the overlap. You will find this type of snap in infant clothing and some sportswear.
A covered snap is used when there is the possibility that the snap may show, such as on a jacket or coat (Figure 9). To cover a snap:
Figure 9. Covered snaps are used to prevent the snap from showing.
This variety of fastener is closed by pressure and opened by pulling it apart. Because they grip with strength but peel apart easily they are ideal for children and individuals with poor or limited finger and/or hand mobility, such as people with arthritis. Outwear garments with hook and loop fasteners are easily removed while wearing gloves. Hook and loop fasteners can be sewn on by hand or by machine. These fasteners are made of tiny, firm polyester hooks on one piece and soft nylon loops on the other (Figure 10). The size of the fastener indicates its holding strength. Hook and loop fasteners are packaged in several shapes and come in fashion colors. These fasteners should always be closed when not in use to prevent damage to nearby fabric.
Figure 10. Hook and loop fasteners have tiny, firm polyester hooks on one piece and soft nylon loops on the other.
Hook and loop tape can be purchased with an adhesive backing, which can be helpful in positioning. However, the adhesive is rarely strong enough to be used without additional securing. Be careful stitching through the adhesive since it may gum your needle and cause skipped stitches when
machine sewing.
There are many popular decorative fasteners available for garments. Such fasteners can be used instead of traditional fasteners and buttons. Most can be purchased or handmade. These fasteners add decorative function to any garment, from a jacket to a pair of jeans or dress. Although you may want the fastener to “stick out,” it should blend well with the fabric color and not overpower the overall look of the garment.
Frogs or toggles can be used on all kinds of outerwear (Figure 11). You usually see them on oriental-style jackets and on capes, velvet jackets, or quilted vests. Toggles can be used on all kinds of outerwear. Ties make an easy closure for all types of clothing. You can use ribbon or matching fabric. To add these to your garment:
Figure 11. Examples of a frog (top) and a toggle (bottom).
Grommets and eyelets are reinforced holes within a garment for lacing. The larger holes, known as grommets, are made by cutting a slit in the fabric, then attaching metal or plastic rings on both sides of the slit (Figure 12). Some grommets require a setting tool or press to apply.
Figure 12. Grommets are large holes cut in the fabric that are then filled with metal or plastic rings.
Eyelets can be made using a decorative stitch on some sewing machines. Otherwise a metal or plastic eyelet can be added to a garment using a plier-type tool (Figure 13).
Figure 13. A special press tool can be used to add metal or plastic eyelets.
Figures 14a (top) and 14b (bottom). To make self-fabric ties, pin the raw edge of each tie to the garment with 3/8 inch extending over the mark (top), then stitch through all layers 1/4 inch from the turned edge (bottom).
Follow steps 3 through 6 for self-fabric ties above. After stitching, notch the raw edges or cut them diagonally to prevent raveling.
C-221: Zippers Made Easy
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C221/
C-223: Collars
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C223/
C-231: Machine Buttonholes Made Easy
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C231/
Baker, M.M. . Hooks & eyes, snaps, and tape fasteners [CT-MMB.029]. Lexington: University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.
Cooperative Extension Service, The Ohio State University. . Plackets and buttonholes [Bulletin 564]. Columbus, OH: Author.
Simplicity Pattern Company. n.d. Fasten it. Antioch, TN: Author.
The McCall Pattern Company. n.d. “Show me” book of sewing. New York: Author.
To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences on the World Wide Web at pubs.nmsu.edu
Contents of publications may be freely reproduced, with an appropriate citation, for educational purposes. All other rights reserved. For permission to use publications for other purposes, contact or the authors listed on the publication.
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