Jun. 09, 2025
Furniture
Hello, I have received 3 pantone chairs. They have stood outside for a long time end are in bad shape. there have a few scratches and the paint is largely gone. (no rips or tears)
Does anyone know how these seats are best renoveerd??
Or would it be a shame to repaint them so you can not see what's left of the "harman miller collection" stickers anymore and the authenticity?
From this tread I know what chairs it are.
http://www.designaddict.com/design_addict/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread_show_one/thread_id//
they are -: Vitra and Herman Miller
Painted polyurethane.
Zuohui Product Page
I have put somme pictures in the link underneath.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/@N05//in/photostream/
Paint
them.
?
I am still wondering about the orange / red color. Is that paint or dyed plastic? If the latter, I would just refinish them.
it is certainly painted...
it is certainly painted plastic. if you look at the first picture, you can still see the imprint of the sticker.
the bit of red you can see is what's left of the sticker.
on the second picture you can see what the sticker originally looked like.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/@N05//in/photostream/
It almost looks as if
someone started to work on the set and gave up which is understandable considering the scope of the job necessary to get it right. I'm pretty sure the brown is the natural color of the resin used to mold the chairs.
Best outcome would likely result from having a pro do the prep and spray using a marine-quality two-part paint or automotive polyurethane. Boatyards and auto body specialists will know how to handle these. A seasoned hobbyist could probably do the prep to save money, but good results would take considerable work with or without pro-level tools.
thanks tktoo.the...
thanks tktoo.
the condition of the chairs is just what you get when you let them outside for more than 20 years. these chairs were for a long time abandoned a bit farther in my street. When the house whas for sale, I took my chance and asked if I could get them for free. And I did!
I reckon the owners would never have begun renovating them. I also believe they bought them new. (You know... rich people who have no sense of design an just buy expencive furniture and then let it decay)
This is how I found them.
You can allso see the other pictures on my flckr page
My question
Is what is the red /orange color? If that is the original color of the plastic, then I would just strip / remove the white paint and reseal the plastic.
the Red / orange plastic is...
the Red / orange plastic is not the real production color of these chairs!!
In -, Vitra and Herman Miller manufactured these chairs from polyurethane (so called "Baydur" I think) wich would than be painted. this material apparently has an orange / red color. In these times it whas already dificult to make plastic that whas strong enough and light enough (7.5kg) so I suppose making colored plastic was far too difficult.
Only in - vitra made these chairs out of colored plastic that therefore had the desired color. However, these chairs were reinforced whit ribs at the bottom. on my chairs you can clearly see the stickers that they were produced by herman miller showing that they are at least from .
and if it would be the true color, the sticker of "herman miller collection would not be apparant.
on this photo you can see a chair who has te same sticker on the same place (orange bit just under the seating)
I have added the website where I have found it
http://www.nietnieuwdesign.nl/catalogus/index.php?page=shop.product_deta...
Okay, I understand.
I would still just strip it and seal, if it looks nice. Otherwise, strip and re-paint them.
hmm, maybe that's not such a...
hmm, maybe that's not such a bad idea. I would like to repaint them, but that will cost a loth. is it worth it?
how much would they be worth in this state and after the repaint. maybe that alone may cost more than they are worth. Frankly I have no idea.
as tktoo supposed, it would be great to let them repaint in two-part paint. but that will cost me a fortune I think??!!
Paint
them.
worth is relative
Pierrick,
You got the chairs at no charge. Enjoy a new experience and spend some money. Being cost conscience is one thing, being cheap is another. As it stands now your chairs are a POS.
The cost is primarily...
The cost is primarily labour.
You can save money by stripping the white off or at the very least making it smooth so as to be undercoated.
Although others may disagree spray painting is relatively easy. Just be sure to do your research before you tackle it. At the very least prepare them for a professional spray painter to keep your costs down. And yes I have painted a few of these.
As for two pac paint, the cheaper and easier alternative is household enamel paint with a seperate tin of hardener, which is really what two pac is anyway. All paint is two pac (definitive), it's just the amount of hardener that is put in.
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I wanted to try SubD and see what I could learn from it. Never touched Max nor done more than a Coke bottle in Maya. FWIW, I really rate Blender since the 2.8 update and this has made me want to learn some polymodelling, so I am still wondering if it’s the better to place to cut my teeth.
I thought doing the Panton Chair would be something that’s both doable, but also challenging enough. I learnt quite a bit from it, coming from someone who doesn’t really know what to look for. Process was mainly by guesswork, but:
Most handy tools:
Auto reset Gumball option (didn’t realise it was an option)
SoftTransform - A bit weird since you dnon’t really see the influence area
SetPt worked nicely for straightening up
Gumball Align to View for tidying was essential
Reflect, obviously
Slide for edges and vertices, and just with Gumball and near snap
3DFace for handbuilding one of the corners
If anybody wants my musings / wishes from doing it, I can list them too
Model here for anyone who wants to see:
Panton Chair _ JH.3dm (501.8 KB)
Thanks Kyle! Yeah your way of doing it has hit it on the head. That sort of starting point makes it much easier. I tried to model ALOT of detail very quickly and it burned me a bit (eg below, during). What I’m excited by in SubD is using all the known tools to, as you did, build a cage. Not just primitives.
Below was my attempt at refined topology (right). But honestly I feel like there were plenty of ways. I’d love to know what sorts are good for what purpose. For me, I would probably be thinking about where I would be likely to make more edits., and build topology in a way that means that bit could be easily edited. I guess it’s not rocket science though. And, for example, to centreline or not to centreline.
Okay, so, I think I’ve got all my conclusions from it for now.
An easy win here, I think. Single SubD Face in the SubD Toolbar: Right click tooltip could be for Mode=MultipleFaces. The current single face would then need to be updated, so that the Mode=SingleFace is actaully sticky. At the moment, if you’ve most recently done MultipleFaces then that sticks, even though you’ve clicked on the ‘Single SubD Face’ button. I reckon that’d be better for the default toolbar.
When dragging out the SubD primitives, would it be a lot to ask to see the cage object? So for example, if dragging out a SubD cylinder, you just see a generic cylinder as though it was a polysurface. Can’t help feeling something is not the right way round there. Does it seem logical you would only get one hit at visualising how much base geometry you will have to work with, before even defining the radius/height. Probably just be me.
Could PlaneThroughPt work for certain bits of SubD? Not sure how it would work out in practice as far as whether it uses the sharp/smooth point/edge/face.
Would it be crazy to ask for CurvatureGraph on Edge Loops? I couldn’t always guage if there were inflexions from the cage alone, or pinpoint from emap. Currently worked around with DupEdge+History. Then I guess you would lock those child objects so you dont select over them.
Would it also be crazy to ask for a Display Mode override to whether sharp/smooth editing of SubD is shown? So you then have editing in a top/side view but still see the smooth mode? I don’t know. I guess some of it not just being this OR that. Maybe it is crazy and would break stuff.
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How can we go about lining up points of a cage, relative to a CPlane? This curve is across the centre, so I would want them to kind of shoot up in Z only. Could give a bit more control further down the line modelling for aligning stuff in top view even. I can’t find an option yet. BTW Align: ToPlane is really nice for straightening up Points.
SubD COntrol Point or SubD Vertex ? Sometimes I am seeing a choice. I would say that, out of the two, the Control point is more handy in that it kind of indicates which face/s it belongs to. Say points are close to stacking, and you want to know which one you are about to move.
I am seeing some strange display behaviour which looks like behind the scenes vertex order stuff rather than my aged GPU.
Typically, it’s more fluid when you don’t lose your selection after moving something a bit. For things that straddle the reflection plane, I seem to lose the selection after transforming. Anything not straddling the plane is fine. There is some similar stuff to that which bugs me in relation to Undo - sometimes you lose your selection, sometimes you don’t. I think it’s do with subobject selecting.
Other Qs:
DeleteFaces - Mesh Faces and SubD Faces
ExtractMeshFace - Mesh Faces Only
Extract Srf - Surfaces and SubD Faces (?)
Some other takeaways:
Traditional Smooth command is really handy
3DFace > AddTo option is great
Didn’t mention, but T-Splines was before my time. So really, in the grand scheme, my judgements are probably quite ill informed.
-I Always centerline unless I am making an asymmetrical product-
-Your topo in the right looks perfect to me
noted and agree-
you can define this numerically in the command line, but you are correct it’d be nice to see the review of the actual geometry-
it does if you turn on the edit points (_EditPtOn) or the control points, just not teh surface vertex using sub object selection.
so far dup and edge and run cgraph on it is the best we have… it’s a request that is already filed-
Agreed, that would be nice to have, but I think we are a ways off from that- Will file it
yes… that will be a work in progress for a while yet.,
yes, lots to do there to clarify/simplify
thanks much for our input!
You’re welcome. My views are far from gospel, think of me as trying to look out for the beginners I feel like anything that needs hunting down should be avoidable.
Are there reports made for 8. Vertex Order Display glitch (if you can repeat the steps) and aligning points to a curve in a Cplane?
For symmetrical stuff I am really finding Smooth useful. Never did very much for me with surfaces, but it’s great for averaging out even just a vert at a time or a row, average out a vert only in X or Y, etc. Which reminds me I should maybe test smoothing in a CPlane XY - CPlane co-ordinates yep, that’s really cool
Huh… so on the spheres and torus, this works. So yeah, that across the board. Maybe it’ll look cluttered and more will oppose than favour it though. I mean, the circle dragging widget on the SubD Cylinder is basically pointless anyway, as the picked point is for a cage point (So creating a 20mm diameter cylinder creates a 20mm diameter cage object, but a 15mm diametersmoothed object).
Thanks for noticing that - that’s good. My previous bind of trying to line stuff up on a non-world plane can be fixed up with that. Pull was handy there as well.
Can you see 8. as a bug on your end? I’m seeing this kind of temporary thing a lot. I don’t have another GPU to compare to. sysinfo_jhut_wip_24.05..txt (2.4 KB)
Yeah it does it very regularly - as I say the step is when having a face selected, and doing a toggle.
I’m looking into this now but I can’t find any available updates. It’s an Nvidia 660M. Nothing is screaming at me - Rhino WIP still gives me the notification tip but doesn’t have anything better or more update to suggest. The best I can do is get the 660 (not for notebooks). Anything that technical folks can recommend?
I really don’t see anything later than 11 / 04 / - 425.31
According to Guru3D the ampere will have more cuda cores than a (and less than a ), so it will be a big upgrade, about 50% more theoretical power over the with it’s cores.
But that’s how it’s always has been, so can you wait? If you need it now then get the or a used , and swap it out for the when you need more power. (When I say “need” I mean do you have paid jobs that require that you render in 1 hour instead of 1.5, or 10 minutes instead of 15? If so you are making money and should not wait. If it is 1 minute instead of 1.5 then you shouldn’t care too much. )
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